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Marion Roeleveld is what we Irish call a ‘blow-in’. But saying that, we are very lucky the winds of change drifted her direction to our rainy, damp and rocky shores from the Netherlands! Marion is the maker of the Famous Killeen Farmhouse Cheese range here in the west of Ireland, at her authentic and sustainable farm, Killeen Farmhouse, at Loughanroe East, Ballyshrule Portumna, Co. Galway in lovely green Ireland. Killeen Farmhouse cheese comes in a range of different flavours using either cows or goat milk and are predominantly in a Dutch gouda style (true to the origin of their wonderful creator!)
I had the wonderful privilege of traveling to the farm and cheese rooms of Killeen Farmhouse with the rest of the devoted staff at Sheridan’s Cheesemongers Ltd Galway. Luckily for us, Marion allowed us to even bring our families to enjoy our day out and visit all the animals and to see the production of her wonderful cheeses – from the grassy fields, through the animals and the big warm shed they lived in, to the milking parlour and to the creation of the wheels and housing of finished wheels in big store rooms.
The highlight of our trip was of course the tenacious goats – who while being as tame and inquisitive as puppies – were brazen when nudging us for rubs, and nibbling our jackets and being generally cute little things! We had goats jumping around, mugs of tea and homemade cakes for snacks, made of course that morning by Marion between cheese turnings!
What struck us all was the close relationship Marion had with her animals – getting into the pens and sitting in between the bleating little kids who jumped and ran all over her like she was one of them! We moved through the farm getting some of the rich background to the Marion and Haske story (Haske is her partner in in the business and in life. He is a goat farmer and the cheese world was not new to Marion. While in college in Holland, she worked at a cheese farm on the weekends, and loved the job. So this life was the next step! They work in symbiotic motion together on the farm between cultivating lands, grazing restructuring, and construction of the barns for the animals, the caring of the animals, milking and cheese making) and how they found themselves selling their industrious souls to the pursuit of excellence in cheese making.
The goat cheeses are handmade using milk from their own goat herd and are pasteurised and aged in the store room at the farm. They use cow’s milk from a local dairy farmer to make the handmade cow milk Gouda and also pasteurise these wheels. Killeen gouda cheeses are pressed, washed curd cheeses. Both are made using traditional animal rennet and are aged for a minimum of 8 weeks on timber shelving. It is a pressed, washed curd cheese. They are turned regularly to give them an even shape. The mature cheese ripens up to 12 months. In order to mature properly, the cheese is not kept in a cold room, but at around 15 degrees. This temperature is ideal to let the cultures do their work inside the cheese. Marion and Haske have also recently gone back to basics, producing a cloth wrapped goat cheddar with raw milk.
These cheeses have won a multitude of accolades and the Killeen Farmhouse brand steadily drives forward – growing, developing and continuing the care and detailed attention to their animals, cheeses and customers, that have won them much respect and admiration from every level of the industry (See more about their wins here http://www.killeencheese.ie/Newsandawards.php). We are extremely lucky to have them!
Emilia Furey is a cheesemonger, food enthusiast, acting manager of Sheridans Cheesemongers Ltd Galway and native of Galway City and County in the West of Ireland. She loves reading information rich texts on nonsense topics, travelling to far away places, bursts of exercise agenda followed closely by eating delicious, fatty and luxurious foods as a reward for trying and snuggling up with her puppy Odie and partner, the Farmer John, in front of the fire with mugs of tea at their farmhouse in Headford, Galway. She hopes to be a grown up one day and maybe make her own cheese but for now she is enjoying learning all there is to know about being a cheese monger master and of course, tasting every cheese she can get her hands on – in the name of quality control and education – of course ;).
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Ok, obviously we didn’t actually have to trek down a dark alley to visit The Cheese Bar in Portland (as you can see by the sunny picture of me behind the sign below), but it’s not exactly centrally located.
It’s a bit of a destination.
But inside you are rewarded with super friendly, knowledgeable cheesemongers, a menu full of tasty sandwiches, and an array of local cheese that I would call downright vast.
My favorite Oregon cheese:
“Hannah” from Ancient Heritage Dairy in Oregon. I’m a sucker for sheep. Hannah is a cow/sheep mix and is one of those super nutty, fatty, warm-tasting aged cheeses that goes awesomely with barely-cold beer, slices of salami, and pickles.
I somehow failed to get a picture of the actual cheese we purchased. In my defense, this was the first stop in our round-the-world trip and I was both insanely giddy and also on some serious painkillers following a rough week moving out of our San Francisco apartment (I wound up nearly crying when we pulled the bus stop cord too late and I had to limp back to the shop a few blocks–I fell through their door like a woman who braved the desert to get there).
In addition to giving you samples of any cheese, they’ll give you samples of any beer on tap. It was gloriously hot out those few days and we bought a sandwich to share along with a few chunks of cheese to sit outside and enjoy the very beginning of our adventure.
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