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The latest edition of the Speciality Cheesemakers Association newsletter had been delivered to work. I was currently managing the Stockbridge branch of I.J.Mellis Cheesemongers, in Edinburgh. I had been a cheesemonger now for 5 years. The classifieds section of the newsletter wasn’t one I normally paid much attention to, but I fancied doing something a bit different. Cheesemaker Wanted – my cheese ‘journey’ was about to change direction.
The job advertised was working for Mary Holbrook of Sleight Farm, near Bath, England. We didn’t stock her goat cheese in the shop, but I had read about Mary and her cheese in a book I had bought in a charity shop, “West Country Cheesemakers”. Mary is considered a pioneer and the Godmother of British goats cheese production. She was one of the first cheesemakers to supply Neal’s Yard Dairy with goats cheese back when NYD was hunting down the best cheeses in the UK. There was no one better for me to learn from.
We chatted on the phone, and she invited me down for a few days to see if the job would be to my liking. It was. She reiterated the job required the position to be involved in “all aspects of cheesemaking” I wanted to know everything there was to know. Le Jaouen – The Fabrication of Farmstead Goats Cheese, and David Mackenzie – Goat Husbandry, seemed like a good place to start. The fact that I had read the books went down well, although Mary seemed a little disappointed I had opted for the translated version of La Jaouen. She had read the original in French when it was first printed.
After a week on the farm, Mary informed me she was off to London for a few days, I would be on my own, making her cheese. Gulp. Initially, I was only let loose on Tymsboro, probably her best known cheese. Very similar to Valencay, Tymsboro is a lactic set goat cheese, fairly simple to make, trickier and time consuming to get to the 4 weeks selling age in perfect condition. Geotrichum was the hot trend back then. Mary is not one for following trends. Tymsboro was not to have “bloody Geo”, so I was told. Turned out I had a knack at producing Tymsboro that was covered in Geo! One positive advantage of having a nice coat of Geo, was that it tended to inhibit the growth of Mucor, a hairy black mould that was a pain to keep under control.
Working for Mary was a rollercoaster year and a half. Even with the long days, the initial steep learning curve, ladling the curd well into the night, the coldest winter the UK had since the Big Freeze of ’63 and the stubborn old goat(s), I loved my time up on the Sleight. Mary showed me a way of farmstead cheese making that is probably on its way out (in the UK at least). She got me to taste, smell and feel the curd. Not probe it with pH meters and technology. Mary is extremely well read–her library of cheesemaking books was inspiring. Knowing that I was working with, and learning from, someone who had 40 years of knowledge, who was passing this on to me was a great privilege.
Mary is also the only British cheesemaker to utilise the properties of the Cardoon thistle as a coagulant (instead of kid rennet) for her Portuguese inspired washed rind cheese Cardo. Cutting the delicate set curd with my bare hands, feeling for the change when it’s ready to mould up, no ‘x’ time equations in sight.
Without my time at Sleight Farm working for Mary, I doubt very much I would have landed the job I am currently in – cheesemaker for Joe Schneider at Stichelton Dairy, Nottinghamshire, England. Two very different dairies, two very different cheesmakers. One shared passion – creating the most stunningly good cheese.
Ross Burnett is currently a cheesemaker at Stitchelton in Nottinghamshire, England. He learned to make cheese at Sleight Farms, and before that was a cheesemonger at I.J. Mellis in Edinburgh. He is a Scotsman by birth and is inexplicably obsessed with cronuts.